Is there a more misunderstood grape than Riesling? Many drinkers immediately balk at the thought of it, having been turned off by a generation of wines that were mostly known for being sweet and insipid. But the great Rieslings, both of yesterday and today, bear little resemblance to those forgettable, regrettable bottles that once littered store shelves. Riesling is capable of many kinds of greatness and has an unparalleled ability to reflect where it’s grown while still retaining tell-tale characteristics of the variety. In Alsace, home to Albert Boxler, you find Rieslings of great richness and depth.
The first thing to know about Alsace riesling is that it is dry. Unlike in Germany’s Mosel valley, where a varying amount of residual sugar is the norm, Alsatian Rieslings are normally bone dry and weighty, opulent wines. Alsace is quite a warm region, so it’s not shocking to see wines reach high levels of alcohol. Riesling does wonderful things in these conditions, displaying notes of ripe fruit, beeswax, and an abundance of minerality. You’ll find all of these in Boxler’s Riesling Reserve.
Jean Boxler, Alberts’ grandson, is based in Niedermorschwihr, and the fruit for this bottling comes from the younger vines from the family’s Grand Cru holdings. It is both fresh and muscular, with notes of orchard and stone fruit, white flowers, and tea leaf. We love it alongside spicy Southeast Asian dishes like Pad Kee Mao.